There are not many folks who don’t try to one-day own a stroll in closet loaded up with each type of suit. In any case, we’re frequently in obscurity with respect to how to arrive. For the rest of, suits are a necessary evil; an insurance policy for professional and social events that you need to spend the absolute minimum on.
Whichever camp you fall into, enable us to light up you. This is the guide to building a tailoring wardrobe. Along the lines of what to purchase, and in what order, to most economically cover your occasion bases and get the greatest value for your sartorial buck. The types of suits each man should own.
Types Of Suit Every Man Should Own
The Plain Navy Two-Button Suit
What could be compared to the little black dress; in the event that you purchase only one kind of suit, make it plain navy two-button with a notch lapel. You won’t get more use out of whatever else.
Weddings, job interviews, court appearances, it’s got you covered. Particularly on the off chance that you pick a mid-weight fabric – around 11-12oz – so you can wear it throughout the entire year. Try not to be influenced by high ‘Super’ numbers – a measure of the material’s fineness. ‘Super’ sounds great, however, they’ll additionally wrinkle more, making them unsuitable for daily use. ‘Fine’ additionally signifies ‘fragile’. So on the off chance that this is your first – or the only – suit, at that point, you’re probably going to blow through it following a few months of consistent wear. Stick rather to around the 100 marks for a sound mix of affordability and durability.
A textured fabric, similar to a hopsack, Birdseye or even light wool; enables you to wear the jacket and pants as suit separates with the rest of your wardrobe. (This does not, however, work with generic shiny worsted wool; so don’t try it, ever). Details like patch pockets and contrast buttons help in such manner; in spite of the fact that they’ll likewise make the suit slightly more smart-casual.
The Plain Grey Two-Button Suit
The other type of tailoring workhorse is the cavalry. Just when your navy suit was about to give up the ghost (or just head to the dry cleaners); grey rides to the rescue, ready to make you look good.
As a general rule, charcoal skews formal and wintry, while light grey is more casual and summery. A mid-grey will give you the most scope for day-in, day-out, year-round wear. Ideally, you want to choose a shade – and fabric – with mileage; such that you can wear the pants with your navy jacket and vice versa.
Until the foundations of your suit wardrobe are in place; avoid patterns like a plague of ravenous cashmere-chomping moths. Nobody will notice that you wore the same navy or grey suit for two or three days out of the week.
The Dark Double-Breasted Types of Suit
It’s at this point that American style guides (and others based in more forgiving locales); would recommend a summer-ready suit in lightweight khaki cotton. However, for those in less forgiving climes, there are more pressing issues.
Instead, now is the time to make a case for a muted, double-breasted type of suit as your dark horse; specifically, an almost-black grey, or navy that’s close to midnight blue; maybe even in a fabric with a bit of a sheen, like mohair, and with peak lapels.
A dark ‘DB’ is versatile enough to enter your everyday rotation. But with the shape, sheen and sharp lapels; it’s also got a bit of swagger about it for those times you need to wear a suit, but don’t want to look like you came straight from the office – e.g. cocktail attire invitations and weddings. Just make sure the cut is trim and not too long in the jacket.
The Dinner Types of Suit
Black tie invitations may be few and far between — as infrequent as once a year, even; but they will come, with increasing regularity as you get older. And when they do come, they’re invariably for occasions when you want to look and feel at your top; a swanky work party, a wedding, a long-overdue Oscar nomination for Best Actor. They’re not times when you want to don an ill-fitting hire suit; that reeks of the soaked-in sweat of a hundred other uncomfortable men before you.
If buying off-the-peg, you could get your money’s worth after as few as two or three wears (bespoke will require considerably more wears). And look at it the other way, how often could you wear a dinner suit? Instead of fudging those ‘black tie optional’ invitations, you could boss them. You could don ‘black tie creative’ for parties even when the invitation doesn’t call for it. If the jacket is cut slim and a tad short; you could even wear it with jeans and a T-shirt on a night out.
The point is that if you have a great tux that fits you like a (possibly velvet) glove; then you’ll find excuses to wear it. And you’ll probably get a lot more invitations as a result.
The Summer Suit
It’s common knowledge that a pair of swim shorts goes far better with the summer season than a suit. However, that’s not to say the warmer months don’t cater to the man who needs to dress with a touch of formality.
The trick to staying cool when the weather’s not isn’t just in choosing the right type of suit, but the right textiles. Tightly woven fabrics such as twill and artificial fibers may be less prone to creasing; but they restrict the amount of air that can circulate through the garment; making ultra-lightweight open-weave linen, seersucker or hopsack a far better choice.
It’s also wise to pay attention to construction. Slightly relaxed-cut, unstructured jackets not only remove the sweat-inducing insulation of padding and linings; they also speak more to the Riviera spirit of summer; as do earth and pastel tones, which never fail to look good next to tanned skin.
The Check Types of Suit
Though it might not be the most pertinent type of suit to purchase; few things promise to supercharge a sartorial rotation like a check. Be it a tartan, Tattersall’s, Prince of Wales, windowpane or hounds tooth (and breathe); an all-over pattern is one surefire way to stand out from the suited crowd.
Of course, just because your two-piece is checked, doesn’t mean it has to be in everyone’s face. Aside from opting for more subtle patterns in tonal colors, wearing the suit as separates; – say, a Prince of Wales check blazer with black trousers – is an easy way to make a statement without straying into peacock territory.
As for pulling off the look as a whole; the most important thing is to make sure the suit is cut sharper; then simply pair it with a solid shirt and tie and you’re ready to join the menswear big leagues.